Unsurprisingly, Zandile Ndhlovu—who is also the founder of the Black Mermaid Foundation—likes to hang out by the water.
By Melanie Van Z
Beaches were among the first public spaces to be reclaimed in South Africa, opening up even before apartheid officially ended in the early '90s. Under that policy, the country's shores were forcibly segregated, with the cleanest and safest waters set aside for whites. Now, nearly 30 years later, the country's first Black African to be certified by the Professional Association of Diving Instructors is continuing the work of making the ocean a welcome place for all. Born hundreds of miles from the coast in Soweto, near Johannesburg, Zandile Ndhlovu was 28 when she first experienced the wonders of the deep on a trip to Bali; she returned with a mission to get people into the water. “The ocean is the only place where I am perfect as I am,” says Ndhlovu. “It's where I feel safest in this body.” Ndhlovu, with her distinctive dyed-blue hair, is also the founder of the Black Mermaid Foundation, which encourages locals to get comfortable in the water at an early age. These are the treasured swimming spots and vegan-friendly eateries where you'll find her when she's not teaching children in the surf off Cape Town or ushering newbies into the free-diving fold.
Where to take a sunrise swim “What brought me to Cape Town was its beautiful, bracing cold waters. I'll wake up, pack a bag for the day—with a few swimsuits from local designer Julia Buchanan—and meet friends at Windmill Beach to watch the sun rise. Everybody is silent; there's such gratitude. Then everyone rushes into the water! We'll swim and dive and just laugh together.”
Go fishing “Sometimes I'll meet my friends at Miller's Point. We'll bring our marine permits, suit up, and grab some groceries—from the sea! We look for shellfish, like periwinkles and urchins, and kelp too. Roushanna Gray, the founder of the foraging company Veld and Sea, taught me what to look for in the Cape's wilds; she offers seasonal courses you can book.”
The spots with the tastiest treats “Just a few minutes from Windmill Beach, there's a spot called The Sweetest Thing Patisserie. They have amazing coffee and baked goods—my favorite are the almond croissants. Farther down the coast, Dalebrook Café has this nutty vegan cake that is so good it will make you cry. They also have an amazing staff. When I walk in, everyone knows my order: a big oat-milk cappuccino.”
Grab a quick (and delicious) lunch “If I want something more substantial, I'll go to Courtyard Café in Kalk Bay—their falafel wraps are amazing. If I could eat only one thing for the rest of my life, it would be chickpeas, in every form!”
Head for the hills “If I have the afternoon off, I'll make my way to the mountains. I like to hike down to Venus Pools in Cape Point Nature Reserve, where I can journal and paint with watercolors. I'll pack a picnic and laze in the sun until the early evening.”
The beach with the best sunsets “Long Beach in Kommetjie has the most mind-blowing sunsets. I'll meet up with a friend and watch the sun go down. Picture all the colors you can imagine—pink, orange, purple—and then all the surfers catching waves in the background. It makes me feel like I live in heaven! Nighttime swims here are also amazing; there's a sheltered bay, so it's safer.”
Enjoy a laid-back dinner “I love Fisherman's Garden. I always get the vegan garden burger with french fries and a drink, usually a glass of South African wine, like a Chenin Blanc—something light and fruity. Durbanville Hills and Spier are my favorites.”
Read the original article on Condé Nast Traveler.
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