Daniele Tamagni’s new book journeys from Dakar fashion week to the dance crews of Soweto, capturing the continent’s subversive chic
In the club … A young 'diskette' on a night out in Dakar Photograph: Daniele Tamagni
Model Coumbelle Kane, from Dakar, 2011
Collecting images of the Congolese sapeurs, Botswana’s heavy metal scene, young dance crews of Johannesburg and more, a new book by Daniele Tamagni brings together photographs that remind us of the subversive and political value of fashion. Tamagni was one of the very few European photographers to attend the Dakar fashion week in their early editions. This image was inspired by the Renaissance painter Pollaiolo, as suggested by the photographer’s art history background. Daniele Tamagni Style Is Life is published by Kehrer Verlag
The Playboys of Bacongo, from Gentlemen of Bacongo, 2008
The band Playboys of Bacongo pose for the camera. There is a strong contrast between the environment where the sapeurs live and the way they dress. By wearing gorgeous suits and strolling with elegance in the streets of Brazzaville, they express pride and get the respect and admiration of their community
Willy Covary, 2008
From Paul Smith’s preface to Gentlemen of Bacongo (Trolley Books): ‘Willy Covary in his dashing pink suit and red bowler hat, tie and shoes walking down the streets of Brazzaville. This shot was so popular that it became an emblem of street style and the inspiration for the Paul Smith spring/summer collection of 2010’
Vive la Sape #3, from Gentlemen of Bacongo, 2008
A member of the Piccadilly Group wearing a bow tie and an eye patch. The sapeur Ferol Ngouabi told Tamagni that in 2001 he created with a friend a new group called Piccadilly after seeing Prince Charles wearing a kilt. His sister, who was living in London, sent kilts to Brazzaville for all the members
Vive la Sape #2, from Gentlemen of Bacongo, 2008
Portrait of a sapeur wearing hot pink sunglasses and matching tie, holding a pipe in his mouth
Dixy in London, from Gentlemen of Bacongo, 2009
Dixy Ndalla, a Congolese man who lives and works in London as a broker as well as for the Congolese embassy. He became a sapeur once he came to London, as he started making enough money to afford the suits. He is the best client of Favourbrook in Jermyn Street, where he learned how to become a real dandy
Tembisa Revolution #2, from Joburg Style Battles, 2012
This dance group became popular on a TV show and, during the 2010 World Cup ceremonies, they were named the best group at the South African Best Dance competition. According to Tamagni, the representation of black people has often been governed by stereotypes. To counteract them, with his projects he has explored the concepts of elegance, beauty, cultural identity and social success in Africa and Latin America, often in marginalised communities
Smarteez #2, from Joburg Style Battles, 2012
Smarteez is a movement of creative young South Africans from Soweto, Johannesburg. Tamagni says: ‘Their name is inspired by Smarties – chocolate candies, black inside and coloured outside. Their clothes are unique with a refined style, incorporating vintage fabrics and items from flea markets. They find inspiration from the past, in their heritage and their roots, but also in the urban realities they live in, constantly seeking new expressions and new languages’
Izis Boys, from Joburg Style Battles, 2012
Izikhothane is a movement of impoverished young people from South African townships who wear designer brands which they then frequently destroy in dance battles. The winner is the one who shows the most abundance. Their aim is to gain social status and sometimes to earn money
Untitled, from Afrometals, 2012
Heavy metal music landed in Botswana during the 90s, but rock arrived in the 70s with two Italian brothers, born and raised in the heart of Africa. Tamagni became a friend of Giuseppe, a descendant of that family and founder of the metal band Skinflint, which combines hard rock sounds with lyrics inspired by African mythology
Dignified Queen and Katy, from Afrometals, 2012
Tamagni went to Botswana to investigate the phenomenon of the country’s heavy metal cowboys. This was taken during the rock festival of Gaborone. ‘I am a very private person, rather shy and not at all aggressive,’ Dignified Queen told Tamagni. ‘There are no rivalries among women. We are all united.’
All photographs: © Daniele Tamagni/Courtesy Giordano Tamagni
Read the original article on The Guardian.
Comments