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A guide to travelling to Zambia solo as a Black woman

From game drives and luxurious boltholes to bucket list views of Victoria Falls

Photo: Getty Images



By Vivienne Dovi


I’m very passionate about learning African history and culture, so the narrative that people visit Africa solely for its wildlife has always bothered me. Travellers aim to immerse themselves in various cultures worldwide and explore cities like locals, so why is Africa – an entire continent – often reduced to a safari destination? This perspective puzzled me for years… until I found myself running towards a giraffe and zebra casually parading the grounds at the Royal Livingstone Hotel.


Photo: Royal Livingstone Hotel

Although I still firmly believe that travellers should challenge their itineraries and go beyond safaris, I began to see the appeal of wildlife as part of the experience. Your inner child is beaming when you see an elephant crossing in a national park; far more exciting than spotting a fox in the UK. Knowing Zambia would offer a blend of adventure, culture, history and wildlife, I decided to head to this southeastern African nation to celebrate a milestone birthday.

Photo: Victoria Falls bridge

With over 750,000 square kilometres and 10 provinces, the country requires time and planning to explore properly. Domestic flights are essential for avoiding long drives, so I focused on three popular regions.


My journey began in Lusaka, Zambia’s capital. While many see Lusaka as just a layover spot, I found it steeped in history and culture. I visited one of Zambia’s five national museums, learning about the country’s evolution from its ancient roots to the present day. I sampled local delicacies like nshima and goat meat before browsing artisan pieces at the cultural centre. Lusaka is far more than just a gateway to other destinations.


Photo: Victoria Falls | Victoria Falls


Next, I flew to Livingstone, home to the magical Victoria Falls. Though small, Livingstone is a paradise for adventurers. The adrenaline-fuelled activities kept me occupied, from spotting rainbows while microlighting to swinging from the Victoria Falls Bridge and leaning over the edge at Angel’s Pool with nothing but the roaring falls beneath me. No trip to Livingstone is complete without exploring Victoria Falls itself, where I walked the grounds, saw the famous Knife-Edge Bridge, and hiked to the Boiling Pot.


Photo: Toka Leya, Livingstone

Livingstone also offered many firsts for me: fishing, a water safari and visiting Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, the only place in Zambia where white rhinos can be found. I also toured the town centre, asking my guide to show me the city as if I were his cousin. This led to candid conversations about Zambia’s history, from David Livingstone’s controversial legacy to the historical migration of African tribes to the country. He also pointed out his favourite stomping grounds along the way.

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After Livingstone, I flew back to Lusaka and then onto Mfuwe in the northeast. This is the entry point to South Luangwa National Park, the birthplace of walking safaris. I spent my time with a private guide, going on game drives and enjoying sundowners against spectacular orange-hued sunsets. My guide’s conservation and wildlife expertise were invaluable. I learned about the Big Five’s behaviours and discovered details on walking tours that go unnoticed from a vehicle. Night drives introduced me to nocturnal creatures I’d never heard of.

Photo: 37d Gallery, Lusaka

Zambia exceeded my expectations. Although I’d been on safaris before, staying in accommodations where wild animals roamed free near my room, especially in Livingstone and South Luangwa, was both delightful and humbling. By the end, I was already researching my next safari – a trip that would, of course, include culture, adventure and history too.


Things to do in Zambia

Photo: Batoka Sky Microlights, Livingstone

Batoka Sky Microlight Flight

Set off for 15 minutes for an unforgettable aerial view of Victoria Falls and Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park in Livingstone. Choose an early morning session to spot a rainbow or two.


Photo: Angel's Pool Victoria Falls, Livingstone

Devil’s Pool

Swim to the edge of a rock pool at Victoria Falls for an up-close-and-personal experience. Devil’s Pool is weather-dependent, so you may be taken to the equally exciting Angel’s Pool instead.


Photo: Night game drive in South Luangwa National Park

Game drives

Spot wildlife and white rhinos in Livingstone, or head to South Luangwa, renowned for leopard sightings and walking safaris with a more off-grid experience.



Where to stay in Zambia


Photo: Royal Livingstone Hotel

The Royal Livingstone by Anantara

An uber-luxe experience with hospitable staff. Zebras, monkeys and impalas roam nearby. You’ll get access to a private pathway to visit Victoria Falls. Book a session with Edward the Storyteller for cultural insights.


Photo: Toka Leya, Livingstone

Livingstone: Toka Leya

Based inside Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, you’ll get an intimate stay with 12 rooms and all-inclusive activities around Livingstone. Spot elephants from the lodge and enjoy daily sundowner cruises.


Photo: Kukaya, South Luangwa

South Luangwa: Kukaya

Located 2.5km from the national park entrance, Kukaya features six large thatched tents with private pools and firepits at your disposal. Design your safari with a private guide and enjoy siestas and night game drives.


Lusaka: Ciêla

Just 15 minutes from the airport, Ciela has stylish, spacious rooms with estate views and an 18-hole golf course. Don’t miss dining at Botanica, one of the capital’s fine dining spots.



Where to eat in Zambia


Lusaka: Grandaddy’s Shoka Nyama

A popular sports bar known for its massive portions of grilled meats and excellent local dishes. Highly recommended by locals. Stop by on a weekend to soak in the vibe, or catch a big game on the screens.

Address: Grandaddy’s Shoka Nyama, Salama Park Road, Plot 206, LusakaWebsite: instagram.com


Livingstone: Serengeti Restaurant

While many travellers opt for hotel dining, Serengeti Restaurant offers a great alternative to enjoy local dishes in a spot where locals genuinely hang out.

Address: Serengeti Restaurant, Plot 1906 Mosi-Oa-Tunya Road Livingstone ZM, 10101Website: zambezijunctionlodge.com

South Luangwa: Since this is a remote area, meals are typically enjoyed at your accommodation within the national park.





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