36 Hours in Accra, Ghana

By Chiké Frankie Edozien

Photographs by Francis Kokoroko

Visitors to Accra, Ghana’s capital, are often jolted by the mix of a crowded, developing city of 2.7 million, with highways and malls, alongside low-rise bungalow communities where everyone seems to be on their smartphone. Residents live a boisterous small-town life in neighborhoods dating back to the 17th century as cranes and high-rises dot the skyline. Ghanaian officials have worked hard to lure members of the African diaspora to bring their investment dollars here and make a life where race isn’t front and center. Even a brief visit to Accra brings this rich mix to the fore. Follow a visit to a castle where captives waiting to be taken to the New World were held in dank dungeons with a trip to see the Black Star of Africa sitting atop an arch, announcing Ghana’s independence. Not to be missed are a local hotspot where you can dance outdoors and art galleries with the work of local artists who have made a name for themselves on the international scene.

Recommendations

Itinerary

Friday

2:30 p.m. Visit the city’s slave castle

Start with a guided tour of the gargantuan, white-stone Christiansborg Castle, also known as Osu Castle, on the edge of the Atlantic. This UNESCO World Heritage site in the bustling Osu neighborhood, the city’s downtown, was built in the 17th century by the Danes, and is one of over 20 forts and castles along the Ghanaian coast where captives were held before being ferried to the New World. Head down to the dank dungeons, where a hole in the ceiling is the only source of light. Explore the extensive airy gardens afterward, while you calmly reflect on the castle’s history. Entry closes at 4 p.m. (80 Ghanaian cedis, or about $5, including the tour guide).

4:30 p.m. Climb up to the Black Star of Africa

Stroll for 20 minutes or Uber over to nearby Independence Square, where you’ll find the Black Star, which sits above Independence Arch and symbolizes breaking free from the yoke of colonialism. Ghana was the first sub-Saharan country to declare independence, in 1957. Take a moment to find the side stairs on the right pillar and climb the 42 steps to the top. You’ll be rewarded with a bird’s-eye view of Christiansborg Castle; the Accra Sports Stadium where soccer, track and field, and the occasional concert, take place; as well as a long stretch of the Atlantic and the small communities on the shoreline. Entrance is free but tipping the keeper of the stairs afterward is encouraged (a suggested 20 cedis).

6 p.m. Sip cocktails and mocktails at a cool listening bar

Unwind from the rich but heavy history with cocktails and “small chops,” such as the cassava chips with habanero ceviche, at Ritual, in Osu’s quiet residential corner, the Ringway Estates. The noisier the merrier is the norm in most of Accra’s drinking spots, but Ritual is a place for decompressing. The cocktails are strong, and the elderflower champagne (160 cedis) is a crowd favorite. Most evenings, a D.J. plays soft music from the Ghanaian legends Osibisa to the contemporary hitmakers Sarkodie and Becca; converse or read one of the books available to browse (1,000 cedis for bites and drinks).

8 p.m. Ease into local cuisines with a fusion experience

Wander over to one of Accra’s newest, tastiest noodle spots, Kishitei, a three-minute walk from Ritual, which offers a light but flavorful first-night dinner. International visitors often find Ghanaian dishes heavy, and easing into the local cuisine helps avoid upset stomachs. But you’re safe to indulge in the Ghanaian peppered chicken wings starter (150 cedis). The restaurant’s décor is minimal with white walls dotted with small, colorful paintings. Diners talk in hushed tones (dinner for 2,000 cedis).

9:30 p.m. Shake and shimmy in the garden

End the day by joining locals in raucous dancing to the live bands that frequent the Zen Garden, in the quaint and upscale Labone neighborhood. The music is often a mix of traditional Ghanaian highlife and palm-wine music, with sounds created from a meld of acoustic guitars, local strings and percussion. The gardens have a full kitchen and bar, diners line-dance onstage, and raucous singalongs are the norm. Casually dressed people in jeans, joggers, T-shirts and slides singing along while guzzling local beers is the daily vibe. Share the large outdoor wooden tables and you’ll end up making new friends. Even guests with two left feet are guaranteed to shimmy (entry, 50 to 100 cedis, depending on the band).

Visitors to the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Mausoleum can learn the history of modern Ghana and understand why it became a beacon of hope for other colonized African countries.

Visitors to the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Mausoleum can learn the history of modern Ghana and understand why it became a beacon of hope for other colonized African countries.

Saturday

8 a.m. Visit the main shrine to Pan-Africanism

Take a guided tour of the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Mausoleum, or wander the grounds on your own. This five-acre park on High Street heading to the old British Accra houses the remains of Ghana’s first president and his Egyptian wife, Fathia. When the former British colony gained independence, Nkrumah stood with other freedom fighters on this site — polo grounds at the time, accessible only to Europeans — and declared Ghana free forever. Its museum houses his papers, his books from his college days in America, smocks he wore as a freedom fighter, even his old car. In just a few hours guests can learn the history of modern Ghana and understand why it became a beacon of hope for other colonized African countries. The fountains, sculptures and artifacts remain a magnet for visitors seeking Instagram posts (100 cedis with or without a guide).

10 a.m. Fill up on breakfast-in-a-pan

Head over to the Nyaniba Estates neighborhood for a robust breakfast at Jamestown Coffee Roasters, where you can sample a proprietary coffee blend, roasted next to the dining area. Breakfast-in-a-pan (180 cedis) is a belly-filling delight of eggs, mushrooms, potatoes, bacon and chakalaka sauce (an onion, garlic, beans and curry mix). Wash it down with a nonalcoholic hibiscus concoction, the Sobolo Sangria (75 cedis).

11:30 a.m. Nab some handmade souvenirs

If you happen to be in town on the first or third Saturday of the month, peruse the racks and stalls of the large Green Butterfly Market at the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Authority park in the Cantonments neighborhood. Cobblers will create handmade shoes for you while you shop, and the brightly colored cloth bags sewn by the women at the tables of BASICS, a poverty-eradication nonprofit, make standout souvenirs. These are women whose families couldn’t afford to send them to school but have learned sewing and bag making (300 cedis). All proceeds from these items go to education for the poor. And if you happen to be in Accra on the second or fourth Saturday, you can head to the Nyaniba Collective, in the nearby Nyaniba community to buy Ghanaian-made products like soaps, creams and cloth.

1:30 p.m. Sample the signature Ghanaian ‘swallow’ dishes

Indulge in a proper Ghanaian lunch at Buka, in Osu. Lunch is the best time to try what’s broadly known as swallow. Here it’s fufu, yams and cassava that are boiled then pounded together to make a doughy mix, accompanied by a rich soup. Climb the stairs for a table in the main dining room, where the bar is, for a great view of Osu — as well as more ceiling fans. Don’t miss the exquisite peppered snails, a scrumptious starter (100 cedis). These large African snails, fried and served with green peppers, are a local delicacy much different from the tiny escargots served outside Africa. Always on the menu is a lighter, mouthwatering jollof rice, a West African dish cooked with tomato sauce and filled with an assortment of protein. Buka’s version with chicken is a particular delight (500 cedis).

3 p.m. Pick up an outfit with pizazz

Cross the street to browse the racks at Belinda Baidoo for brightly colored print dresses and large kimonos. All are hand-sewn by local seamstresses with local fabrics normally used for traditional wrappers and blouses, now updated with modern styles. If you want to take home some traditional carvings, bead bangles or kitchenware, Uber over to the Arts Center, a market that is a 10-minute drive on the High Street, where rows of stalls sit with traders beckoning you to buy. Some stalls have their carvers seated at the back. Prices are negotiable, so bargain away. One tactic would be to start by reducing the price the seller suggests by half and working your way up to a happy medium.

5 p.m. Browse the best in Ghanaian visual arts

Spend a few hours indulging in some of the best of contemporary Ghanaian art at Gallery 1957, inside the Kempinski Hotel in the Ridge neighborhood. Start with the original gallery, tucked away in a corner just past the lobby bar. Gallery 1957 has helped propel homegrown artists such as Amoako Boafo, Serge Attukwei Clottey and Rita Mawuena Bennisan, an American with dual citizenship, onto the international art scene. Each fall, collectors descend on the gallery’s openings seeking to find the next West African star. Gallery 57 also routinely feature the work of international superstar photographers and mixed-media artists like the New York-based Lyle Ashton Harris and the London-based Phoebe Boswell. Next visit the Galleria Mall, also on the hotel’s grounds, for an even more impressive second gallery space where group shows are held. The exhibits close at 7 p.m., but no one is ever rushed out. This spring, a solo show from the painter Rebekka Macht is on view in that larger space.

8 p.m. Splurge on a decadent and tasty Afropean fusion dinner

Head over to the Vine restaurant in the Labone neighborhood, and start off your evening with a specialty cocktail, served in a large tumbler made from recycled bottles. Vine, in an old colonial era compound, is mainly outdoors under tents and cabanas with leafy foliage all around. The chefs mix Ghanaian and Western fare for their well-heeled, well-traveled and celebrity clientele. The plantain chips on a bed of spicy black bean hummus (70 cedis) are a tangy jolt for the palate, while the chargrilled lamb chops (650 cedis) or the mackerel with yams (210 cedis) burst with flavor. Finish your dinner with the mango cheesecake infused with palm wine (90 cedis). The singer Usher, as well as the actors Danai Gurira and Michaela Coel, have dined here, but there are also plenty of locals swirling old-fashioneds, or chugging ice-cold Chop Life premium, a Ghanaian take on craft lager brewed with cassava and maize (70 cedis for the lager).

At the Jamestown Fishing Harbor, you may hear a smattering of different languages like Fanti, Nzema and French as some of these fisherfolk have come from other coastal towns as far away as Ivory Coast.

Sunday

9 a.m. Preview the catch of the day in historic British Accra

Jamestown and neighboring Usshertown, the oldest districts in Accra, are home to the 17th century British Fort James, a former prison that once held Kwame Nkrumah, and the Dutch Ussher Fort. There are no high-rises here. It is mostly inhabited by the Indigenous Ga people, who often make their living by fishing. Skip the forts, and head down to the Jamestown Fishing Harbor. Watch men fixing nets along the water’s edge. You may hear a smattering of different languages like Fanti, Nzema and French as some of these fisherfolk have come from other coastal towns as far away as Ivory Coast. A smile will get you a “good morning” and a wave from most. The harbor was recently refurbished by the Chinese government, which has been flexing its muscles as an alternative development partner to the Americans and the Europeans. (Early risers can catch a picturesque sunrise at 6:30 a.m.) As you leave, make a quick stop at the looming red and white Jamestown Lighthouse. This 92-foot structure was built in the 1930s to replace the original from 1871. It’s an unofficial symbol of Accra. Take photos outside as there is currently no access to the inside.

10:30 a.m. Have a scrumptious Sunday brunch in Osu

Head to the Mix design hub for its popular all-day Sunday brunch. Take the stairs to the third-floor restaurant, and along the way check out the artwork and furnishings by Ghanaian artists trying to break through in the world of international furniture design. Sit on the balcony terrace to enjoy soft ocean breezes while taking in the views of the Osu and Labadi neighborhoods. Try the cocoyam chips with the fish ceviche or the cassava fish with plantain mash. The oven-grilled chicken yassa with couscous is a favorite. The kitchen is sometimes helmed by star chefs from across the region so you might find temporary menu items on offer (Sunday brunch, with drinks, 2,000 cedis). Walk off the meal by heading to the nearby Dikan Center and browsing the current exhibition of contemporary photographs.

12 p.m. Savor cool sea breezes with a cool drink in Labadi

There are plenty of choices to cap off your stay in Accra. Dip your toes in the sand on the beach at Rehab, a laid-back bistro in the Labadi neighborhood, with a D.J. most Sunday afternoons. Or pop into the more lively Afrikana Beach House next door. Drummers and shirtless dancers entertain poolside in a carnival-like atmosphere as patrons imbibe while enjoying ocean views and sea breezes. At the serene Ozzies Beach Palace, you can enjoy ice-cold lager and tilapia. The Sandbox Beach Club, a complex that includes a cigar club, a fine-dining restaurant, a gallery and poolside cabanas right on the ocean could be your last stop.

Read the original article on The New York Times.