By Jada Jackson
Fueled by trending commodities like musical genres such as Afrobeats and Amapiano and stars like Tyla, Ayra Starr, Wizkid, and REM, there's been a noticeable resurgence of interest in African creatives, including fashion designers. Slowly, designers from across the continent are stepping into the spotlight and captivating audiences on both local and international runways.
The apparel market industry in Africa currently stands at $70.58 billion for 2024 and is projected to experience an annual growth rate of 5.16% until 2028, according to a report by Statista. This data underscores Africa's status not just as a cultural melting pot but also as a potential emerging fashion destination. A 2023 report by UNESCO on the growth of the African fashion market highlighted that African governments are taking note of this surge of interest in locally-made products and are gradually establishing fashion weeks to nurture their local fashion scenes. Notable fashion weeks across Africa include Lagos Fashion Week, which attracts thousands of visitors locally and from abroad to Nigeria's buzzy fashion scene.
The UNESCO report further elaborates that the popularity of "Made in Africa" products has been propelled forward by the continuous expansion of African e-commerce platforms, which has surged from 13% in 2017 to 28% in 2021. This growth has facilitated Africa’s fashion sector, attracting more customers locally and abroad. Similar to Black designers in America, African designers across the diaspora encounter parallel challenges in realizing their dreams. These obstacles include a lack of access to capital, inadequate infrastructure and training for emerging designers, limited access to quality materials at reasonable prices, and insufficient protection for intellectual property rights.
Despite this, African designers are determined to find their footing in the global fashion sphere and showcase their vibrant cultures to the world. Ahead, we spotlight 17 fashion designers hailing from across Africa who are poised to make their mark.
01 |Mazelle
Founded by Nigerian designer Mariam Afolabi, Mazelle effortlessly merges West African, Victorian, and contemporary influences in her designs. Her latest collection, "Marie In The City," is a homage to Marie Antoinette's timeless style, showcasing puffy sleeves, intricate ruched details, corsetry, and delicate pearl embellishments.
02 | Djainin
Inspired by African and global streetwear, Ivorian designers Gaston Ouedraogo and Jean Yves Yebieyin created Djainin. Founded in 2022, the brand aims to be more than just a fashion label; it strives to serve as a tool for narrating the rich history of Côte d'Ivoire. Their debut collection was predominantly denim-based and featured portraits of former First Lady of Côte d'Ivoire, Marie-Thérèse Houphouët-Boigny. The brand's most recent collection delves deeper into their Akan heritage, with pieces showcasing motifs like the sawfish and imagery depicting Akan people adorned in traditional garb.
03 | Rich Minisi
South African founder Rich Minisi established his eponymous multi-disciplinary brand in 2015 with the aim of showcasing his contemporary interpretation of African silhouettes and culture. The burgeoning designer recently collaborated with Adidas for a Pride 2023 collection featuring various performance and footwear pieces. His latest fall/winter 2023 collection is a maximalist blend of fun, incorporating prints with tartan/argyle patterns, googly eyes, corsetry, and feather detailing
04 | Sisiano Official
Established in 2013, Sisiano is a Nigerian contemporary womenswear and menswear label. Inspired by designer Sisiano Paolo's background in dance, the brand celebrates the beauty of natural shapes and movement. His inaugural collection for 2024 introduces kimono-style robes, cut-out designs reminiscent of waves, asymmetrical hems, and intricate ruching, all reflecting his signature aesthetic of fluidity and grace.
05 | Freemind US
Ivorian fashion designer Hamed Ciss debuted his fashion label in 2014 following inspirational visits to France. His brand is a platform for fostering creative expression and unity, and his principles are vividly showcased in every piece within his collections. His latest spring/summer 2024 collection, "La Pluie" (French for "The Rain"), narrates his personal odyssey to find his rightful niche in the fashion sphere. The collection epitomizes versatility, featuring a captivating array of sportswear garments adorned with avant-garde embellishments alongside stunning knitwear creations.
06 | Thebe Magugu
South African designer Thebe Magugu's namesake luxury fashion label was established in 2016. Through many of his collections, Magugu pays homage to indigenous prints, culture, and socio-political activism. The label’s recent heritage collection, showcased in British Vogue, highlights prominent South African tribes, motherhood, and a centuries-old pre-marriage tradition from the Lobola tribe.
07 | LFJ Official
Nigerian designer Princess Juliet Olanipekun is the visionary behind the fashion label LFJ Official, renowned for crafting chic wearable art pieces. Her creations often spotlight her distinctive whimsical pleating technique. Her latest collection debuted at NYFW last year, titled "Under Sea," showcased a mesmerizing array of vibrant pleated dresses and ensembles.
08 | Angela Brito
Cape Verdean designer Angela Brito launched her brand in 2014, crafting pieces that intricately weave the stories and heritage of the Cape Verdean people. Currently based in Brazil, she draws inspiration from the vibrant fashion landscape of her adopted home. Brito frequently incorporates pánu di téra, a traditional Cape Verdean fabric symbolizing the unity of the multiethnic island nation, into her creations. Her latest collection, Romaria, is a testament to her ongoing exploration of the interplay between tradition and avant-garde expression.
09 | 3 Ladies Pirates
Maglasy designer Samira Mihaja Moumini introduced the Three Ladies Pirates line in 2013, aiming to empower women and celebrate the richness of Madagascar's cultural heritage. The brand incorporates traditional fabrics like Lambahoany, also known as Lamba, each version representing different facets of Maglasy people's daily lives and ceremonies. Their latest collection, "hors série," meaning special edition in French, features a unisex capsule wardrobe comprising six pieces. This includes a variety of beanies crafted from surplus cashmere, a pinstripe button-up shirt with lamba fabric sleeves, and a tactile jacket adorned with a version of lamba fabric called Landy on the sides.
10 | Pepper Row
Nigerian designer Omafume Niemogha is the creative force behind the Neo luxury sustainable brand Pepper Row. She seamlessly incorporates the vibrance of her hometown of Lagos into her collections, employing batik dyes, bold prints, and avant-garde silhouettes. Pepper Row's spring/summer 2024 collection, titled "Space Ship, SS Space Ship I Love You," debuted at Lagos Fashion Week last year. It embodies a fusion of pastel and muted colors, upcycled materials, and abstract detailing inspired by African Neolithic influences.
11 | Maison Kébé
Senegalese model turned designer Cheikh Kébé launched his "Afro Diasporic" luxury fashion brand in 2020 with a mission to showcase Senegalese heritage and craftsmanship. His current line features vibrant silks, tie-dye prints, and tailored linen pieces designed with a chic, minimalist approach.
12 | Kìléntár
British-Nigerian designer Michelle Adepoju launched her fashion brand Kìléntár in 2020, drawing inspiration from her Yoruba heritage and her explorations of various West African cultures over the years. Adepoju is dedicated to crafting collections that reflect African artistry fused with elegant and feminine designs. Her spring/summer 2024 collection, titled "Out of This World," pays homage to the cultural significance of water and its connection to the West African water goddess, Mami Wata. The pieces showcased in the collection include spiral gold earrings, a cowrie beaded top, elegantly ruched skirts, tie-dyed dresses, and a dress adorned with multi-colored scales.
13 | Ester 414
Founded by Emilie Andriamahefa and her cousin Sophie, the womenswear label Ester 414 draws inspiration from cosmopolitan culture, Magalsy heritage, and the textile market of their country. As a completely women-owned brand, they prioritize employing local women seamstresses and artisans within Madagascar. Their latest collection, ALAHADY, named after the Magalsy word for Sunday, is a Magalsy interpretation of Sunday's best attire. The collection features a blend of muted tones with splashes of colorful plaid prints and whimsical details such as Peter Pan collars and airy sleeves.
14 | Izubaa
Rwandan stylist and designer Elodie Fromenteau founded her fashion label, Izubaa, in 2021 to reconnect with her Rwandan heritage. Her brand seamlessly merges Rwanda's rich history and culture with contemporary, posh silhouettes. The latest collection, Ndabaga, symbolizes Rwandan women's fighting spirit and resilience. This collection blends luxury suiting with vibrant Rwandan traditional prints and streetwear aesthetics.
15 | Kenneth Ize
Nigerian designer Kenneth Izedomwen established his label Kenneth Ize in 2013. Since then, he has been recognized as a finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2020 and was also a finalist for the prestigious international Woolmark Prize in 2021. His work is driven by a desire to harmonize the boldness of African fashion's artisanal craftsmanship with a luxurious and contemporary twist. After temporarily halting production at the beginning of last year, Ize debuted his latest Fall/Winter 2023 collection, featuring a striking combination of upcycled colorful garments sourced from his hometown of Lagos.
16 | OMÔL
Cameroonian designer Nathalie Chebou Moth's passion for fashion and empowering women became the driving force behind the creation of her fashion label OMÔL. Established in 2020, OMÔL primarily uses upcycled pieces and collaborates with local artisans for their unique creations. Many of the brand's past collections have featured dresses with bold prints, unique cuts, and suits with luxurious textures. Recently, the brand introduced a bridal collection along with a range of chic accessories.
17 | Diarrablu
Senegalese designer Diarra Bousso established her brand, Diarrablu, in 2015, fueled by her love for mathematics, art, and her Senegalese heritage. Each of her creations is meticulously crafted and sustainably produced in a Dakar-based factory. Their commitment to sustainability is exemplified by crafting products only upon receiving orders through their website. Diarrablu’s latest collection, "Jigeen" (meaning "woman" in the designer's native language), showcases pieces crafted from recycled materials, boasting daring prints, embellished with artisanal lace.
Read the original article on InStyle.
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